Though I know it places me among a small minority for thinking this way,
I consider it ironic that the popularity of the film, Sideways,
based on the Alexander Payne book, was used so heavily to leverage the popularity
of Santa Barbara. I think it's ironic because, while the movies
beautifully shows off the landscape and is chock full of cameo appearances
by great vineyards and restaurants — giving locals a thrill, no doubt —
the movie tells the story of the private downward spirals of two longtime
friends whose only real solace is found in the copious (and ostentatious)
consumption of fine wines.
As with most tales of personal debauchery, there
are several good laughs along the way. But the story is more a
cautionary tale than a celebration of wine country, and therein
lays, in my opinion, the irony. Still, I suppose the Santa Barbara
region is right to take advantage of its newfound stardom, and
nobody can blame the folks in the area for making the most of it.
It's also highly likely that most visitors to Santa Barbara wine
country have a much different (and certainly much better) experience
than that of the characters in the movie. I must admit as well,
it's also fun to visit the locations used in the movie, because
they did manage to incorporate some of the area's best places as
their natural backdrops. So my encouragement to those who trek
to Santa Barbara for a wine country experience is to understand
that the region is anything but sideways – it stands firmly upright as a
wine-producing province and as a destination for soaking up the
good life.
Once upon a time not
long ago, Santa Barbara County was home to just a scattering
of upstart wineries. Today, the County has more than 21,000 vineyard-planted
acres, grown and tended by dozens of wineries. Many maintain small-batch
production and several are family-owned- and-operated. The wineries
are primarily situated in the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria valleys, about
35 miles north of Santa Barbara. Rich with history and shot-through with
breathtaking coastal scenery, the area's AVAs produce, of course, remarkable
Pinot Noirs (as fans of the movie are now well aware), but also excellent
chardonnays and cabernets. There are more varietals on offer from Santa
Barbara in smaller quantities, including merlot (yes, merlot!), and select
malbecs and viogniers.
In spite of the spike in interest around and visitors to Santa Barbara
County wine country since the movie, the region has managed to retain its
mellow, unpretentious appeal. The relaxed pace and easy-going charm actually
translated well on screen, and visitors can easily take advantage of it
with a well-planned weekend. Whether exploring the quaint Danish-transplant
town of Solvang or discovering one of the many great restaurants in the
valley towns, the intrepid traveler will find Santa Barbara County every
bit as appealing as California's more famous wine country to the north—and
you need not careening toward intrapersonal oblivion to enjoy it.
The region's four main towns— Solvang, Los Olivos, Santa Ynez, and Ballard
— each have a distinct character. Also worthy of attention is the
town of Buellton to the north. Solvang is self-described as the
Danish Capital of American, founded by Danish Americans in 1910
and established as an ethnic colony with architecture and culture to match.
As serious-minded as its beginnings were, the charm of Solvang is undeniably
kitschy, with more souvenir shops than should possibly fit into one town
and buildings that look like they're from the Disneyland back lot. There
are a handful of interesting museums in Solvang, including the Solvang Motorcycle
Museum and the Hans Christian Andersen Museum. Don't miss the Presidio
Winery Tasting Room (1539 Mission Drive, 805-740-9463), where the staff
are typically friendly and eager to expound upon the history and state of
the regional wine industry. Also in town is the surprisingly urbane Cabana
Tasting Room & Wine
Bar (1539 Mission Dr. 805-686-9126), offering a great collection
of wines by the glass from local vintners.
In Los Olivos, the small town atmosphere gives way to chic assortment of
shops, galleries, and restaurants. There are more than a dozen wine tasting
rooms here, too, including outlets by Andrew Murray Vineyards, Daniel Gehrs
Wines, and Los Olivos Vintners.
Los Olivos is a good starting point to explore two of Santa Barbara County's
major wine trails: the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail and the Santa Ynez Valley
Wine Trail. Stop by the popular Los Olivos Grocery and grab picnic supplies
— excellent pannini-style sandwiches, cheeses, meats, etc. — before heading
out.
There are several great option for overnight stays in the area, including Fess
Parker's Wine Country Inn & Spa in Los Olivos (2860 Grand Ave,
805-688-7788; www.fessparker.com), the Wine Valley
Inn & Cottages in
Solvang (1564 Copenhagen Dr., 805-688-2111; www.winevalleyinn.com), and
for something completely unique, the Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort in
Solvang (1054 Alisal Rd, 805-688-6411; www.alisal.com), where you can ride
horses, play golf, go fly-fishing, and other activities not wine-related.
Of course, whether you decide to pick up a “Sideways” map to make sure
you see all the places on screen in the film is entirely up to you. It's
worth noting, though, that many locals are less than enthusiastic about
making the connection. Because, like me, they have long understood that
Santa Barbara County has much more to offer than a beautiful destination
for letting your life go sideways.
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